Lighting & Color Temperature Basics For Smartphone Content Creation -

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[vc_column width=”1/1″][vc_column_text align=”left” text_size=”20px”]The effect light has on your subject is a result of a few simple factors; [/vc_column]

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Color, intensity, distance from the source & physical interference. Truly mastering lighting & color theory takes lots & lots of study/practice. For those of you who would like a bit more on these topics – please sign up for my newsletter… HERE

Let’s keep it simple for now… and expand on only the essentials of lighting and color temperature. [/vc_column]

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Your camera isn’t great in “mixed lighting” scenarios. Daylight, standard lamp bulbs, halogen & incandescent lights all have drastically different “color temperatures.” Their hues & tints range from blue to green to red-ish orange.

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If you’re new to this concept, just do your best to use one type of uniform light source.

Daylight is ideal. If you’re able to stage your shot by a window and turn off all other background light sources you don’t need, that’s a great start. Mixed color environments can make for discoloration in your subject matter… Often, your smartphone camera will auto adjust & assign the wrong color temperature. There is nothing worse than a photo taken in daylight when your sensor is calibrated for incandescent… yuck[/vc_column]

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Keep in mind – intensity & distance of your light source. Your phone camera’s “dynamic range” isn’t as amazing as the manufacturer claims.

Avoid harsh shadows & intense highlights. Newer smartphone cameras will combine images or digitally overcompensate when processing harsh shadows & highlights …what? In English – sometimes you’ll get noise, grain, or unnatural colors in overly bright/dark areas of your smartphone images. When contrast, color, and HDR (High Dynamic Range) cross paths… the results are interesting… In some cases, it can make food like Pizza or a burger with a well-glazed bun look really appetizing. In other cases, it can make simple subject-matter look very artificial. It’s all subjective. If you’ve experimented with this or plan to in the future please shoot me a comment or message on social, I’d love to see your results and talk more about how you found your photo’s recipe…

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[vc_row][vc_column width=”1/1″][vc_column_text align=”center” text_size=”20px”]Experimenting with 3 point lighting is one of the best ways to familiarize yourself with general lighting principles. After you’ve worked with the following setups & snapped some stills/video with your smartphone camera – you’ll better understand what to look for in everyday lighting & – how to make the best adjustments to improve most lighting scenarios quickly. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column]

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Move a “soft light” or less intense light source closer to your subject. This soft source will act as a great “key light”. Move a bright/intense light source further away from your subject, use it as a “fill light” and brighten up any harsh shadows if possible. In some cases you can use an intense light source as a “backlight” creating a “halo effect.” Backlighting is a great way to pull your subject from the background but be careful not to draw attention away from your subject or overexpose your background.

Although a basic 3 point setup is one of the most practical ways to light a scene, it’s not a quick solution… Especially if you’re short on time.

A faster solution that can produce an equally beautiful look might look like a large window/natural light source and an intelligently placed reflection disk or “bounce board”. Depending on how your subject & camera are positioned you might be able to fake the look of three-point lighting without that third light source.’

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If you don’t have any usable lighting gear, a reflector, or a nice natural light source on location… Well then, I’d recommend picking up a nice small, dimmable LED panel. Definitely splurge for one with adjustable color temperature… This way you can at least fill in any shadows on your subject & match the existing lighting in the space.

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